Ichiran, a popular Japanese ramen shop, opened its first U.S. location in Brooklyn recently. One of Japan’s most popular restaurant chains, what makes Ichiran unique is its dining experience: Patrons are seated and served in partitioned booths, where they can eat alone without any direct human interaction.
For over 50 years, Ichiran has served tonkotsku ramen (made with pork bone broth) to people craving solitude, and the chain prides itself on its “low-interaction dining” policy. Once customers are seated, they circle their broth flavor and noodle consistency preferences on the provided menu, and are served by an anonymous pair of hands that brings their noodles, clears away dishes, and even provides second helpings without a word.
Writing for Eater, food critic Robert Sietsema had a lot to say about the chain in a post, discussing the very specific human anxieties involved with eating: “Common to the United States and Japan is a feeling among solitary diners that … [that] eating alone might be a failure to have friends rather than some social necessity based on expediency or location.” To Sietsema, Ichiran’s unique approach to food service isn’t quirky or pretentious as much as it is weirdly protective; “you’re really eating a bowl of noodles in a way so that no one can watch you.”
Eater also produced a short video that explains Ichiran’s low-interaction vibe. Watch it below.
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