If you were privy to outgoing president Barack Obama’s last summer reading list, you might’ve come across William Finnegan’s Pulitzer Prize–winning Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, a nonfictional account of the author’s sojourns in all the greatest surf spots around the world during the sport’s emergence in the ’60s and beyond. You basically see the transformation of the sport through Finnegan and his surfer comrades’ eyes, as they hop on different models of surfboards from surf paradise to surf paradise. (These days, Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker.)
So this is RealClearLife‘s quasi-ode to Finnegan, which we’re curating from a larger list that Men’s Journal put together recently. Here are our top selections from their list, with input from the list’s authors Jen See and Kitt Doucette.
Banzai Pipeline – Oahu, Hawaii
Says Men’s Journal:
“One of the most photographed waves in the world, Banzai Pipeline is a proving ground for surfing’s elite. During the winter, storms hurtle down from the North Pacific, bombarding the North Shore with energy. When that energy hits the reefs at Enukai Beach Park, it is transformed into a beautiful and dangerous wave. As is typical of most reef breaks, the take-off area at Pipeline is very small and on the best days, it’s crowded with local heavies and top-level pro surfers. Though surfers come from all over the world to try their luck at Pipeline, it remains highly localized. North Shore locals regulate the peak and woe to anyone who crosses them. Acceptance is hard-earned on the North Shore and many never achieve it.”
Cloudbreak – Tavarua, Fiji
Says Men’s Journal:
“Tavarua, which is surrounded by coral reef, offers several top-quality surf breaks, including Cloudbreak. The best barrels are at the top or ‘the point,’ while the more rippable waves are located on the inside section, which goes by the moniker of ‘Shish Kabobs.’ The reef can handle swell to 25 feet or more, and on the biggest swells, draws tow-surf teams from around the world. But you’ll want to surf it between April and October during the southern hemisphere winter.”
Duranbah – Gold Coast, Australia
Says Men’s Journal:
“Around the corner from Snapper Rocks and Kirra, Duranbah sits just north of the mouth of the Tweed River. Sandbars along the jetty that marks the entrance to the Tweed River turned Duranbah into a romping playground. The water is clear, blue, warm, and inviting. The wave works best during the southern hemisphere winter when the south swells come rolling in. On the biggest days, the waves feather on the Tweed Bar, which has traditionally been a magnet for shipwrecks. The punchy right is an aerialist’s dream, and ‘D-Bah’ serves as a proving ground for hungry contest surfers.”
Grajagan Bay (a.k.a. G-Land) – East Java, Indonesia
Says Men’s Journal:
“There are multiple take-off spots at G-Land, depending on the tide and swell. On the inside section called ‘Speed Reef,’ the wave flies across the reef in a fast-breaking barrel. It’s thick and almost perfectly round and makes for a high-stakes thrill ride. The shallow water barely covers a sharp, urchin-covered reef, heightening the consequences of error. G-Land is at its best between May and October when the southeast trade winds blow, and the storms spin up from the south.”
Hossegor – Southwest France
Says Men’s Journal:
“If you’re a fan of beach breaks, good food, beautiful women, and a killer nightlife, Hossegor is for you. An easy drive from Biarritz, Hossegor boasts miles of quality beach break. Some of the best peaks can be found at La Gravière and Les Estagnots, but you can’t go wrong with the shallow, sand-bottom breaks in Hossegor. Thanks to an off-shore canyon, Hossegor picks up focused swell energy from multiple directions. Surfing Hossegor is best in the fall, due to inconsistent breaks during the summer.”
Montauk – New York
Says Men’s Journal:
“Unlike much of the East Coast’s surf breaks, Montauk offers variety, and boasts not only beach breaks, but also coves and reefs. Ditch Plains Beach is among the favorite spots to surf at Montauk, but the town has plenty of nooks and crannies. During the winter, Montauk Point picks up swell from the North Atlantic, but bring your 5mm wetsuit, because water temperatures can drop to the mid-30s. During the summer, the water temperatures remain a chilly 55 degrees. And come late summer, hurricane swells can deliver some of Montauk’s best surf of the year. Though it’s exposed to multiple swell angles, it can be inconsistent.”
To read Men’s Journal‘s full list, click here.
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